How To Repair A Screw On Watef Pvc Dr A In Pipe
Screw Through a Water Pipe: Whose Mistake?
Information technology'due south a typical snafu: the cabinet installer hits a water pipe with a screw. This thread is a collection of examples, with descriptions of who covered the repair price. August sixteen, 2022
Question
Our employee was working in a penthouse putting upward paneling. He used his stud sensor looking for a stud and establish what he thought was a stud but instead screwed through a PVC piping for sprinklers. Within minutes the water pressure level had built up and blew a hole through the drywall and of course water went where water goes. My gauge is it'southward next to impossible to get a mechanical program to know where these things are, so who is responsible for the water harm? My company, the developer, and the contractor all knew where we were putting up our panels. Does anybody know nigh this sort of thing?
Forum Responses
(Business and Direction Forum)
From contributor Grand:
The guy putting the screw through information technology is, and if he is an employee then they are. That is what insurance is for.
From correspondent A:
Contributor G is right in all regards. These things happen and that is specifically the reason why you need to carry insurance.
From correspondent P:
I remember one of my guys put a spiral through a 110 line into the monitor line on a mainframe/mini type computer and it fried the mainframe motherboard, big bucks. The figurer line was not shielded nor was the 110 line. Insurance is a beautiful matter.
From correspondent One thousand:
It should exist the plumber�s error. How dare he put the PVC pipe behind the wall where no one can see it? It should be front and center for all the world to meet, but it also does depend on a few circumstances. Where was he screwing? Where was the pipage in relation to the depth of the studding? Should in that location have been a plate in front of the pipage? How long a screw was used?
From contributor D:
A few years ago I was installing nigh a seven' run of wall cabinets and found all of the studs like normal. I went to put the last screw in and information technology didn't feel right so I backed it out and reset it, just withal information technology wasn't correct then I backed it out and a sound of h2o came out the hole with a small amount of water .
The plumbers did some new water lines but they cutting a stud and ran the pipe in line with the stud and it was however in that location on the top half. This was 57" off the floor and there was no metal in front. I don't employ them but a stud finder will indicate on a piping likewise. The home owners were out of state talk about panic, I constitute the water turn off and shut the water heater off in the breaker box and called the owners to get the plumber of pick back out. That's when I saw what had been done, each one of the states would have done the same if nosotros did not have X-ray vision.
The plumbers had the nerve to charge $390 to come up out and cutting the drywall out and replace the section I screwed. I told the plumbers function to send me the pecker no questions asked I owned it. I and then called my own drywall human being to repair and re-texture the area and I repainted it as soon as it was dry out enough. I had the chiffonier re-installed in two days and the task went on schedule.
The homeowner was still out of town chosen and asked if he should get the drywall man out and I told him I took care of it and all was in and done. When the possessor returned he realized what had happened and how I would have had no way to prevent this. He paid the plumbers bill and refused to allow me to pay. He felt it was not my fault in fact he was happy there was no h2o damage on the new hardwood floors or elsewhere and concluded upwards giving me an extra $250 on my next draw as what he called a gratuity. Check with the local codes usually the first ii 1/two" must be free of wires and plumbing.
From contributor N:
The i stud you absolutely have to spiral into is ever covered in erstwhile non-code wiring and has plumbing, and/or gas lines nearby. Give your insurance amanuensis a phone call and make this right.
From contributor J:
I was installing some cabinets confronting a wall with steel studs and I drove a spiral in and the condo went black. I hit the chief 220 line coming in to the condo and called electrician and had information technology repaired. The electrician told me the guy who originally wired the place did information technology wrong and that he ran the wires on the inside of the stud channel instead of the exterior. He also had the wires bundled tight with zip ties and then the BX couldn�t flex and move as the spiral tried to hit it. I paid the bill, even though in that location was no way for me to take avoided this. It cost me $300 for the electrician and he was able to brand the repair so all drywall was no disturbed behind the cabinet.
From contributor G:
I was screwing into five/eight" sheetrock with a two inch spiral and hitting a waterline, (unshielded and tight to dorsum of sheetrock) in a vacation domicile. The homeowner was acting as a GC. Nobody inspected the plumbing/electrical prior to sheetrock. I found the shut off, cleaned the mess, and opened the wall. I called the owner (who came and repaired the plumbing himself) and I repaired the sheetrock and finished the install. The customer blamed the plumber, his friend. In that location was no insurance involvement, and no extra charges. I�1000 still doing work for this customer four years later. As a matter of fact, I rank him equally my number two client -lemonade from lemons.
From the original questioner:
I practise have insurance, and information technology�due south been a dozen years since I thought nigh it so I tin't remember how much. We were lucky, the water showed itself correct away. Allow�s say information technology happened at the end of the day simply earlier a long weekend. A new building and no i living several floors below, the damage could have been in the millions.
Now I live in the real globe, so I know it would take a calendar month of investigation and thousands of dollars to contact all of the contractors involved with putting things backside the drywall, and if they did accept drawings they are as drawn, not as built.
From contributor U:
I was installing shutters in a customer�s window and ran a spiral into the side jam of the window and had water showtime seeping out around my spiral. I could non believe they had installed a plumbing line next to a window. I got the homeowner to contact the contractor's super and so nosotros could shut off the water and he said there was no plumbing at that place. Seems like the masonry walls were full of water from pelting storms during structure, every bit I had this happen in another window likewise. What a relief to me, but I cannot imagine what else is going on with the house if their walls held water for months after moving in. This was a seven meg dollar house, only very poorly congenital.
From contributor Y:
While installing a metal balustrade, I ran a spiral into a radiant floor heating line. Talk about a mess of glycol spewing out! That existence said, I knew about the lines (I always ask or cheque) and was told where they supposedly were and given the parameters of how far abroad from the balcony line I could screw. Needless to say, I was shocked when a fountain of greenish began coming out. It turns out the heating guy ignored the specifications he was given and ran the lines close to the balcony, right where the balustrade went. The homeowner/GC, who normally is very hard on the carpenters and cabinet makers, apologized to me and made the heat contractor handle all related repairs.
From contributor O:
Here is the last one I hit. I was running through a stud with no metal shield. Information technology was not fun, but I paid for it myself. The homeowner was at work and never knew that it happened.
Click here for higher quality, full size image
Click here for higher quality, full size image
From correspondent Yard:
Tips for avoiding this type of mishap: keep screws to one" penetration of stud, max. Use a multi-purpose stud finder and then recheck by hand tapping with a hammer and blast before putting cabinets over a wall. Go along a dimension listing of studs found, and refer to information technology every bit y'all install each screw. Do not only check vertically, but horizontally likewise. Visit the site before canvass rock is installed, take pictures if possible of exposed weather. Have a good insurance policy. Presume every screw or nail will hitting something it should not striking. Pre-decide shut off locations. Do non blitz your installation. Be proactive. Have the best client relations, and notify everyone asap. Exercise not be too proud to acknowledge something you tried to avert.
From contributor C:
Tips to avert bug: pre-determine the path of the wiring and plumbing before putting annihilation through the wall. I've never punctured a line or a wire partially because I practise this, partially considering I've been lucky. If I'm not sure where things are at, I drill a few inspection holes to observe everything. Ane time I came within inches of an 80 amp feed line. So like I said, function of information technology is just luck.
From contributor L:
I was hanging an upper in a commercial job and drove my spiral and instantly heard a hissing, then was blasted in the face with a stream of boiling hot h2o. I staggered around, half blind, to shut off the water. I'd hit the pipage a human foot away from the in ceiling hot water tank. The plumber, many years before, didn't follow the rules. I chosen a plumber, had it fixed and gave the bill to the client/landlord, with a argument from the plumber explaining the rule that was not followed. He paid.
Inexperienced guys think screw size matters. If I see 1 of my guys with a 3" screw in their hands I ask them what they're using it for and tell that story. 1" is a proficient rule, but if you look at a #8 screw the bespeak runs for v/eight" earlier you are at the full gauge. So if your cabinet has a ane/2" dorsum, and then 1/2" to 5/8" GWB, (plaster and lathe is a different story) your stud is an inch in. Therefore a 1 3/4" to 2" screw gets you all the shear strength you're going to go.
How To Repair A Screw On Watef Pvc Dr A In Pipe,
Source: https://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Screw_Through_a_Water_Pipe_Whose_Fault.html
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